The Scent
of Icons

(Documentary) On the evening of the world premiere of the documentary film ICON(S): Maison Francis Kurkdjian, the historic Parisian theater L’Olympia seemed merely the backdrop for a much deeper, invisible presence. From the moment guests entered the foyer, a distinctive, almost magical scent filled the air: Baccarat Rouge 540—soft, velvety, sensual. This olfactory signature set the tone for the evening, during which the fragrance house behind the classic was portrayed. At the center of it all—both in the film and among the audience—was Francis Kurkdjian himself, the visionary perfumer and creator of this legendary scent.

The Art Behind the Cult
With the documentary series ICON(S), produced by Terminal 9 Studios and directed by Matthieu Menu, the film world turns its attention to the great luxury houses and the pioneering creations that have long become cultural references. This latest episode does more than simply explore a perfume; it celebrates scent as a work of art, as a surface for reflection, and as a mirror of the zeitgeist.

The film captures the creation of the immersive, multisensory installation The Alchemy of Senses, first presented in 2025 at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. Inspired by Baccarat Rouge 540 Édition Millésime, Kurkdjian gathered an extraordinary group of talents. Through visually striking imagery, the film dissolves the boundaries between perfumery, music, haute cuisine, and the visual arts, becoming a profound homage to French savoir-faire. The creator himself stands at the center of this interdisciplinary dialogue. In conversation with Maison Ë, Francis Kurkdjian shares his thoughts on icons, inspiration, and his singular philosophy.

MAISON Ë What does the term “iconic” mean to you? How does something or someone become an icon?

FRANCIS KURKDJIAN ‘Icon’ is such an overused word. For me, being ‘iconic’ means becoming a universal reference, recognized across cultures and generations. It creates an emotion or a memory that people hold onto. An icon is not only recognized—it is deeply felt and tied to a specific moment, vision, or attitude. I believe something or someone becomes iconic through authenticity, consistency, and the ability to touch people in a sincere way—and by standing the test of time.

M.Ë Which scene in ICON(S) is the most defining for you?

F.K. The most iconic scene is definitely the dinner at Anne-Sophie Pic’s restaurant in Paris. Just imagine it: Anne-Sophie Pic—a star of contemporary gastronomy—hosting Elias Crespin, a leading figure in kinetic art whose works are permanently exhibited at the Louvre. At the table with them are Katia and Marielle Labèque, true figureheads of the piano who have redefined the repertoire for two pianos, as well as David Chalmin, a master of contemporary music known for his genre-crossing fusions of classical, electronic, and rock. And finally Cyril Teste, a leading figure in contemporary theatre and cinema. That is truly iconic!

M.Ë Are there reasons why your creation Baccarat Rouge 540 has become such a strong source of inspiration—especially for artists?

F.K. Over the years, I’ve observed how Baccarat Rouge 540 has resonated not only with fragrance lovers but also with artists across many disciplines. Its influence extends far beyond perfumery, inspiring musicians, composers, singers, and performers to reinterpret its essence through their own creative lens.

The creation of the fragrance was the result of deep reflection. The idea was to capture the spirit and soul of the House of Baccarat in a single scent—to translate the brilliance and density of crystal. Crystal is created through the combination of three elements: minerals, fire, and craftsmanship. Powerful and refined, the name Baccarat Rouge 540 evokes the metamorphosis of clear crystal fused with 24-carat gold dust and slowly heated to 540°C, producing a radiant scarlet hue. It is a cross-generational fragrance with a unique, expansive olfactory signature. However, success is never predictable.

M.Ë Has the way other artists respond to Baccarat Rouge 540 changed your own perspective on the perfume?

F.K. What touches me most is seeing how a fragrance can live beyond my own vision and become part of others’ creativity. It hasn’t changed how I think about the fragrance itself, but it has reminded me that scent is something deeply personal, open to interpretation—just like art. That’s what happens when something reaches icon status: it inspires others.

M.Ë As an artist and perfumer, is your vision about beauty or about novelty?

F.K. I don’t consider myself an artist. I am a perfumer—a craftsman of scent. For me, perfume is extraordinary in its own way because it evokes incomparable and unmatched emotions. That is my goal. Through perfume, you create a kind of beauty that generates happiness, joy, and positive feelings. So, I don’t see beauty and novelty as opposites. My only aim is to create beauty that feels alive, personal, and original. Ultimately, it is about bringing happiness through beauty.

M.Ë What drives you when creating new works for Maison Francis Kurkdjian?

F.K. First of all, I placed the word ‘Maison’ (house) before my name to express my belief that a House has a soul, a history, and shared emotions. This reflects my dream of creating small moments of joy for others. My motivation is to express a very personal and sincere vision of perfume and to serve the art of perfumery in the best possible way. I want to push the boundaries of what fragrance can achieve and open up new worlds for it.

M.Ë Do you have a personal role model you look up to?

F.K. There isn’t just one icon. Instead, I feel drawn to those rare souls who leave behind a trace of beauty, vision, and authenticity—the kind of people who quietly shape the world around them with natural elegance.