Becoming an Icon
The Hermès Scarf

(Icon) Hermès` meticulously crafted harnesses—celebrated at the 1867 Universal Exhibition in Paris—married simplicity with resilient elegance. The Maison became known for its exquisite leather craftsmanship, producing durable and elegant saddles and harnesses for the European aristocrats and nobility. By mid-century, it had become the trusted name for affluent equestrians, cementing its legacy in luxury goods. As railroads and automobiles replaced horse-drawn carriages, Hermès adapted its expertise to a changing world and expanded into luxury travel accessories—from leather trunks to the legendary silk scarf. Let the journey begin.

The Scarf is Born
Energized by the pulse of Parisian travel, Hermès introduced its first scarf in 1937— “Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches” by Robert Dumas, Émile Hermès’ son-in-law. It was adored by travelers, the aristocracy, and stylish women, combining fashion with fusion. Crafted from the finest Chinese silk and woven into a fabric twice as robust as its competitors, it set a new standard for silk.

Hermès and the Cinematic Bohème
A handbag designed by Robert Dumas, who took over his father-in-law’s company, in the 1930s became iconic in 1956 when American movie-star and later princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly was photographed with it. Renamed the Kelly in her honor, it cemented Hermès’ royal ties. In 1959, Grace Kelly ingeniously transformed a Hermès scarf into a sling for her injured arm. This suddenly placed the scarf at the center of the paparazzi’s flashbulbs.

Timeless and elegant, the Hermès scarf captivated French cinematic bohème. Icon Romy Schneider, effortlessly styled it, transitioning from classic refinement to casual chic. The connection to French Cinema emerged naturally. Jane Birkin, the British-French actress known for her effortless style, seamlessly incorporated Hermès silk into her ’70s looks. In 1984, a chance encounter on a Paris-to-London flight next to Jean-Louis Dumas, son of Robert, sparked the creation of the iconic Birkin bag. Inspired by Jane’s search for the perfect bag to suit her needs as a young mother, the Birkin was born—spacious, elegant, and effortlessly timeless. Following this, Jane became a true muse of the house.

A Blank Canvas Open to Expressive Forms
Since 1937, Hermès has unveiled over 2,000 scarf designs, many featuring iconic equestrian motifs. The timeless Brides de Gala, introduced in 1957, has surpassed 70,000 pieces, and by the late 1970s, a scarf was sold every 25 seconds—cementing its legendary status with over 1.1 million scarves worldwide.

Hermès silk scarves are woven metaphors that ignite the imagination. A highly stimulating playground for creatives of all kinds. Over the years, more than 300 illustrators have shaped the language of the Hermès scarf. More than just an accessory, it is a meticulously composed object, the only Hermès creation signed by its designer. Each scarf tells a story in colors and forms. The Hermès scarf embodies creation, movement, and reinvention—charting new paths, sparking escapism, and embracing a boundless spirit of freedom. The latest Hermès Crush Campaign fully embodies this vision.

Art Editions and Collectors` Items
Robert Dumas’ open-minded vision fostered remarkable encounters and collaborations, linking the house to talents like A.M.Cassandre, Philippe Ledoux, Henri de Linarès, and Raoul Dufy, to name just a few.

For its first silk art edition, Hermès partnered with color master and Bauhaus artist Josef Albers, reproducing six pieces from his “Homage to the Square” series in a limited run. Albers sought infinite color variations within a fixed form—the square—honoring its composition. Reproducing his six works on silk pushed Hermès’ expertise in screen printing, refining the “edge to edge” technique to seamlessly blend colors. This edition marked the beginning of a vision: bridging the world of manufacture and the world of art.

expanding the collection
Further editions included the contemporary artist Daniel Buren, with his “Photo-souvenirs“ for the second edition.

The abstract Japanese artist Hiroshi Sugimoto designed the third edition, inspired by Newton’s and Goethe’s scientific experiments on the origin of colors, the breakdown of light, and its emotional impact on humans. The project created delicate color gradients on lightweight satin weave through inkjet printing – a technical challenge for Hermès Éditeur. Thus, Couleurs de l’ombre was born.

For its fourth edition, Hermès invited Julio Le Parc, a leading figure in kinetic and optical art, to reimagine the iconic silk scarf. His vision, Variations autour de La Longue Marche, became a vibrant tribute to color, resulting in 10 series of six unique scarves. His designs draws the eye into an elaborate game of almost labyrinthine forms and structures of curves and counter-curves.

An abstract fusion of two houses took place in Spring/Summer 2013 with the Hermès x Comme des Garçons collaboration, known as Comme des Carrés, initiated by Rei Kawakubo, the founder and creative director of Comme des Garçons. She approached Pierre-Alexis Dumas, the artistic director of Hermès, with the idea of reinterpreting the iconic Hermès silk scarf (carré). The collaboration, released in 2013, featured Comme des Garçons’ avant-garde aesthetic with Hermès timeless craftsmanship, resulting in a collection of limited-edition scarves that blended classic motifs with bold, unexpected designs.

Fashion as an Art and Silk as Its Canvas
Under the tenure of Head Designer Christophe Lemaire (2010- 2014), the house transformed its signature silk scarves, frequently incorporating them into ready to wear collections. The silk motifs featured mosaic and tropical designs crafted by Hermès’ artisans.

Since 2014, Hermès’ Artistic Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, has further developed the brand by blending its rich heritage with modern design approaches. Nadège also works closely with Cécile Pesce, the Creative Director of Silk, to bring the silk creations to life on the runway.

At Hermès, silk is viewed as a living artwork that continuously evolves. As a cultural icon, the scarf embodies a timeless aesthetic, with design codes that are understood worldwide. Its design transcends eras and is constantly evolving. The journey will continue.