Suiting Up for Summer

(Summer Wardrobe) To master summer dressing, look no further than the Italians who have long perfected the art of casual refinement, best captured by the word sprezzatura. Often described as effortless elegance, sprezzatura is less a rulebook than a mindset. It’s a nonchalance that’s deliberate, an appearance of ease that requires thoughtful effort. Dressing well in warmer months means dressing seasonally, with just the right touch of personal flair, making sure to never look fussy, while always keeping one’s style intentional. It’s this blend—or juxtaposition, rather—of relaxation and polish that is perfectly encapsulated in summer suiting, a category of menswear that often walks a finer line than its colder-weather counterpart.

So, how does one begin to understand warm weather tailoring? By forgetting everything one thinks they know about the topic. That is, by challenging the conventional norms of structure and weight that typically define suiting and embracing instead a new, more fluid standard of elegance rooted in comfort and ease.

First, a summer suit doesn’t need to hug the body. In fact, it shouldn’t. A looser cut allows for better air circulation and keeps you cooler throughout the day, offering not just physical relief but also an aesthetic shift toward modernity. Work with a tailor to create a suit with a generous fit in both the jacket and trousers. The jacket, ideally, should be unlined, avoiding unnecessary insulation in favor of breathability. While a lining can act as internal scaffolding for a suit’s structure, skipping it allows the fabric to drape more naturally against the frame, creating a relaxed silhouette, almost as though you’ve just stepped out of a Fellini film.

Picture Marcello Mastroianni in crisp linen, cigarette in hand: perhaps a little disheveled in his wrinkled linen, while still being elegantly composed. Pair this unstructured jacket with a relaxed-fit trouser in a neutral linen—although lightweight cotton or airy seersucker can serve just as well depending on the occasion—and you’ve already mastered the core principles of summer tailoring.

However, as with most things, the devil is in the details. Because summer suits often lean to minimalist in design, they’re a blank canvas for one’s personal tastes. For a small upgrade that’s immediately impactful, opt for horn buttons which offer an elevated alternative to plastic. Further, their natural palette complements the soft blend of tans and browns found in many linen fabrics, subtly enhancing the suit’s overall tone.

Both fit and finish have an equal value when designing the perfect summer suit. With fewer components to work with, each element of the suit needs to harmonize. A single-breasted jacket is always the better choice for summer—double-breasted cuts add unnecessary bulk to an already relaxed silhouette. While flap pockets have become the default for most suits, a patch pocket better complements the informality and ease of the season. The same goes for lapels: a notch lapel is classic, but a soft, wider peak can add a hint of sprezzatura when balanced with relaxed tailoring. And when it comes to color, keep it neutral. Beige, khaki, grey, and navy are all excellent foundations, providing a backdrop for a gold-toned Cartier or a brown leather belt from Ferragamo. These hues not only reflect sunlight more effectively than darker tones but also serve as versatile anchors for nearly any warm-weather accessory.

Accessorizing a summer suit is another opportunity to showcase personal style without overwhelming the understated elegance of the outfit. Lightweight scarves, pocket squares in subtle patterns, or minimalist leather loafers can elevate the look while maintaining comfort. Loafers, in particular, whether in suede or soft leather, offer both breathability and sophistication. Avoid heavy fabrics or overly structured shoes that fight the relaxed vibe a summer suit is meant to evoke. Even the choice of socks (or the absence of them) can reinforce the easy elegance at the heart of summer dressing.

While summer heat can be like death and taxes—an unavoidable misery that must be faced year after year—there is some comfort to be found in a suit that’s comfortable, elegant, and well-proportioned. Whether strolling through a piazza with a gelato in hand or stepping out of a meeting in London, a well-made linen suit is the ideal companion, making even the hottest week of summer feel a little more bearable—and a great deal more refined.