The Flavors
of Istanbul

(Maison Ë Visit) Istanbul is a city of infinite layers, where contradictions exist in delicate harmony. It defies understanding—which is exactly why it is so magnetic.

In its most recent form, the city has seen a surge of a contemporary culture deeply affected by both the past and the vast lands that compose modern Turkey. A brand-new culture has been shaped through the translation of international standards into Turkish.

The result is myriad: Turkish-wine-only bars serving vintages produced through the revival of indigenous grapes. In newly-minted Michelin-starred restaurants, tasting menus unfold like a palimpsest—each course revealing Anatolian ingredients and ancestral recipes. Modern design is inspired by Ottoman and Anatolian aesthetic and craftsmanship, brought to the present with a twist. Modern architecture merges with the restoration of historic structures, reimagined as spaces of luxury; a harmonious confluence of past and present.

From the historic Pera neighborhood with its European neoclassical architecture, we travel down to the Karaköy port, across the Golden Horn to Zeyrek, across the Bosphorus to Kuzguncuk—and beyond. Along the way, we encounter the people and places defining the pulse of contemporary Istanbul culture.

The Modern Anatolian Chef

Named after the city’s first and pioneering beer factory opened in 1902—which is now a contemporary center of art and culture—the neighborhood of Bomonti has been changed beyond recognition with the recent sprouting of luxury high-rises. On the ground floor of such a glass and steel behemoth, the elegant dining room of chef Fatih Tutak awaits, dimly lit and awash in clay and wood tones. The name of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant makes a clear statement to the world. At TURK, the sophisticated tasting menu successfully catapults the multifarious flavors and traditions of Turkish and Anatolian cuisine into the international echelon of fine dining. A flavor whirlwind made from ingredients meticulously sourced from all over the country, dining at TURK is more than memorable; it is a true feast of everything that Turkey has to offer, both past and present. It’s an exploration of cultural preservation at its finest and most flavorful.
“When I opened TURK, my intention was never just to cook—it was to express identity. Earning two Michelin stars gave Turkish cuisine a voice at the global fine dining table. It proved that our culture, techniques, and terroir deserve the same recognition as any other,” says Tutak. “It shifted perceptions—not only about what Turkish food is, but what it can become. I believe we’re no longer just part of the conversation; we’re helping shape its direction.”

From the open kitchen, a beautifully coordinated dance unfolds among the staff. Ingredients arrive at the table as if by magic, whether honey from Bitlis or butter from Hizan, Aegean wild herbs, or anchovy garum, aged in the Black Sea. Innovation takes the form of a traditional çiğ köfte made from 60-day dry-aged beef from the Thrace region and topped with Osetra caviar, imbuing this beloved dish with the newest of contexts.

“Turkish cuisine is a mosaic. It’s layered, emotional, and grounded in thousands of years of migration, exchange, and memory. It’s a cuisine of generosity, seasonality, and bold simplicity,” Tutak says. “At its core, it’s about honoring the land and the people who shape it. I would say: Turkish cuisine isn’t something you taste—it’s something you feel.”

The Turkish Wine Expert

Down Bankalar Avenue, past lighting shops and construction sites turning Ottoman-era residences into boutique hotels, the former headquarters of the Ottoman Bank—built in 1892—–is impossible to miss. Glossy cherrywood revolving doors lead into a grand hall of marble staircases and columns, the center of SALT Galata, Istanbul’s premier cultural institution. Upstairs, past a comfortingly busy open kitchen, the minimal dining room of Neolokal faces glass walls, affording a full view of the historic peninsula and its iconic domes and minarets.

Established in 2014 by chef-owner Maksut Aşkar, the Michelin-starred menu touts modern interpretations of traditional Anatolian cuisine. Yet, when diners are seated, the Neolokal menu is accompanied by something quite special: a comprehensive, almost encyclopedic wine menu—complete with maps and introductory information—presenting wines from Turkish boutique producers only. This Istanbul rarity reflects the assiduously growing Turkish wine scene.
The man behind the list is Turkish-Armenian wine expert Levon Bağış who has been actively influencing Turkey’s wine and gastronomy scene for over twenty years through his writings, as well as educational initiatives and events. “As Anatolia is one of the historical homelands of the grape and wine, we believe that wine is among the most powerful reflections of its memory and traditions. Therefore, when designing the menu, we paid particular attention to wine, the regions it comes from, and the stories it carries,” says Bağış.

Dedicated to showcasing the finest expressions of indigenous varietals, the menu is an intricate reflection of both the unique terroir and the true potential of each cultivar, including natural and low-intervention wines. Particular standouts include vintages produced from grapes that have not been used in winemaking for many years such as Canavar Vineyard’s Ampelo Karasakız and Heraki Wines’ Sultaniye Delta V.

Equally significant are the wines of Yaban Kolektif, a project co-founded by Bağış, which aims to preserve, promote, and produce wines from Turkey’s indigenous grape varieties. The project’s Sungurlu dry white wine from 2022, for example, is made from grapes saved from extinction by the village of Ayağıbüyük in Çorum. Ancient vines grow in clay and sandstone soils 1,045 meters above sea level, lending the deep yellow wine its olfactory notes of quince. Its sublime flavor is enhanced not only by Aşkar’s dishes and sommelier Ersin Topkara’s expert guidance, but also by the view of the city at night, as its sparkling lights illuminate Istanbul’s dark horizon.